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bman040
05-13-2005, 09:56 AM
Well, last night I took out the rear drive shaft and raised up the t-case skid. Rubi drives like a champ now (well, not really, but no more vibrations). I'm about to drop her off at the dealership to get the oil leak fixed and to get an alignment. also, when i was tightening up the t-case skid i sheared off two of the nuts welded onto the inside of the frame (and almost a third), so i'm going to have them fix that too. I've got my fingers crossed that they'll honor the warranty on all this. anyways, i'll post the final results. oh about the driveshaft, i'm gonna order a tom woods cv, and just drive around in FWD till it gets here.
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imported_gblue
05-13-2005, 11:46 AM
Those nuts are pressed into the frame, they really suck.. I had the same problem with mine. I took my welder and tacked them in place so I could get my skid plates installed. Be aware with the TW driveshaft that you need to adjust the rear pinion angle, this means adjustable rear upper control arms. Then you have to adjust it so you dont have any vibes either.. Its was a real pain on my jeep to get this fixed..

mikea
05-13-2005, 10:41 PM
if your running larger tires i'd suggest you start doing your own alignment. The only adjustment you really have is toeing. It's a ripoff to pay a shop to do it. I use an extendable paint roller extension as a measuring tool and it takes me about 10 minuts to do my alignment now.

bman040
05-15-2005, 04:40 PM
mikea - thats an awesome idea. i've been using a tape measurer which i know can't be very accurate. Gill - when you say adjust the rear pinion angle, you mean back to factory specs (parallel to ground) right? i was going to get longer lowers for that purpose. any reason to use uppers instead? thanks for the tips
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mikea
05-15-2005, 06:41 PM
for the rear you don't have to get the adjustable uppers but if you do you can move the rear axle back further while keeping your pinion angle. If you just have the lowers your axle is pulled closer to the front.

Don
05-15-2005, 09:13 PM
[ QUOTE ]
if your running larger tires i'd suggest you start doing your own alignment. The only adjustment you really have is toeing. It's a ripoff to pay a shop to do it. I use an extendable paint roller extension as a measuring tool and it takes me about 10 minuts to do my alignment now.

[/ QUOTE ]

Explain this to me Mike... I am a slow learner /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif You got an alignment, then cut basically a broom stick as a messuring tool? Camber / Caster set to??

imported_gblue
05-16-2005, 12:20 PM
No you have to adjust it so that the pinion nut is pointing to the tail of the transmission, I had to get adj uppers to do this