tools involved with putting on a lift kit

[kevin]

hi guys i just ordered a 4 inch superlift standard lift from quadratec. ANd i was just asking what tools are involved in insilation of a lift kit. I have about a week to a week and a half until the lift arives in the mail so i figured i was going to gather all the tools i need to install the lift once it comes. I am barowing a air tool sprocket set from a friend, i have 2 floor style car jacks, 4 car stands, a hi-jack(if i can find one) , a few tool chests worth of various tools, and all the torx style sprocket heads. Do i need any spectalty tools? I heard something about a spring compressor of some sort via renting from a car store like pep boys. Do i need any spectial lube to help remove the old bolts without stripping the treads? Will lots of wd-40 work? Anyway if anyone has installed a superlift 4 inch or any lift that has any hints to a successful install any info would be much appretiated.

thanks

kbo /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dance.gif

[Fred]

I would get lots of a penatrating lube and start sparying all bolts NOW, spray a little daily. As for teh spring compressor, not needed but makes life ALOT easier. It can be rented at any auto parts store for a few bucks. I would reccommend having Airtools, a cut off wheel, maybe a grinder (never know when something may need to be cut) definaly have some breaker bars, a cheater bar(some pipe) a torque wrench and a decent set of hand tools in all three sizes, 1/4, 1/2, and 3/8, as well as both standard and metric, definatly have a set of open end wrenches. I could go on.....basicly account for tha absolute worst happeniong and if it all goes well you will not use half the tools and the job will seem easy. Good Luck and keep us posted with pix, do a step by step of photos if possible. The biggest thing is start using lub on all bolts starting now everyday untill the job is done and difinatly re-torque ALL bolts about 500-1000 miles after install!!!! VERY IMPORTANT!!!!!

[gmbtj]

Dont get a spring compressor!!!!!!!! All you need to do is put a jack on the side of the axle you are working on and push it against the frame above it, it is a WHOLE lot easier than using a spring compresser!!!!!

As for tools, I guess you can consider me lucky, as my Step-dad has about 8,000 dollars worth of tools that he has bought and recieved over the years. We had all the tools needed, and you will probably to. Make sure to hit all the bolts and nuts(and get the threading as good as you can to), with PB Blaster. The instructions will tell you what tools are needed so when you get the lift via the mail, get out the instructions right away and get all the tools out then so you wont be looking for them when you are working on your lift kit.

[gmbtj]

Ohh, and Happy Birthday!!! Are you 18 now?

[BillM]

I have the Superlift 4" kit. I think with all things that everyone has listed you should more than be in good shape. There isn't much to the lift, 4 springs, 2 lower front control arms, TC drop kit, and sway bar end links for front and back. That is it. Should be able to do it in a day with one person helping.

[Dave Taylor]

Here are a list of things that came to mind when I did several of my various lifts....

<ul type="square"> Optional--Air Compressor/Air Tools (Cuts the time in half)
Optional--4 to 5 ft Vehicle hoist (Cuts the time in half)
Coil Spring Compressors (rent from Autozone)
Pickle Fork (Swaybar Stud remover)
45 Torx Bit for rear trackbar (If you need to remove it)
WD40 or similar lubricant for front shock bar-pin placement
come-a-long or ratchet straps (for helping re-align rear trackbar bolt holes after lift)
Jeep likes to use both SAE and MM bolts; so be able to have sockets and wrenches for both (front Trackbar bolt is 15mm)
[/list]

p.s. It really is a simple job; and it is possible to install the coils without a spring compressor; but if you are by yourself, and you are lifting over 3 inches; it is very, very hard to do...even with jacks....save yourself the trouble; and pickup a compressor....(Experience talking; I have swapped out coils 3 times for various reasons; and 2 of the times; didn't have a compressor; and wished I had.)

One trick, if you don't get a compressor....is to put jacks on both sides of the axle; and then unhook the lower control arms. You will gain about 3-4 more inches of extra axle travel this way when you jack up one side; and drop the other.

[mikea]

[ QUOTE ]
<ul type="square"> Optional--Air Compressor/Air Tools (Cuts the time in half)
Optional--4 to 5 ft Vehicle hoist (Cuts the time in half)
[/list]


[/ QUOTE ]

Ok Dave the way I'm reading this it shouldn't take any time at all if he gets these two items. If each one will cut the Install time in half it should take zero minuts for the install.

p.s. See Patrick your not the only one I pick on /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/woot.gif

[Dave Taylor]

Logically; if Murphy wasn't involved; your analysis would be true Mike.

However, Murphy must show up; regardless of how prepared one is; and force you to drive to 4 parts stores; and at least one Home Depot to find one unexpected and strange tool or part that you didn't think you would need ahead of time.

Expect at least 2 hours minimum on any project because of this rule.

Add the additional time of 1 day if you break a part or a tool; because if that does occur; and Murphy requires it at least half of the time; then it will occur at exactly 2 minutes after it would take you to drive to any parts store, at any speed, regardless of distance from your house....before they close and lock the door for the night.


*******************
Moral of this story
*******************

Don't buy one synthetic winch-line (or a 2nd, or a 3rd, or a 4th) unless it is 2 inches thicker than the last one you broke!

Those who 'got this' may now laugh!

[gmbtj]

Well actually if you did better in Math back in High School, you would've realized the total time would come out to be 1/4 of the origional time, thus making my theory a reality.

In order to find the outcome of this problem, you must multiply the two instead of just subtracting from the original time. Thus, 1/2 x 1/2 = 1/4. Plus the one hour break time equals the equation T = 1/4 x O.T. + B.

T= new time
O.T. Original time
B= breaks or beer/pizza (whichever applies)

For example, if the original time was 8 hrs, and you had 2 hrs worth of neccessary breaks on top of that, then the answer would be found by solving using my equation:

T= 1/4 x O.T. + B

T= 1/4 x (8) + (2)
So the answer would be 4 hrs.


/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

[Fred]

Smart A** I mean Boy

[kevin]

excellent!!! that really helps! I am going to a friends house because he has a good level driveway and lots of airtools. So after i rent a spring compreser and a pickle fork i should be good to go. I;ll take your advice and start to spray the bolts with pb plaster to make it easier to get the bolts off.

Oh yeah, patric im 17 today. Thanks for noticing that was realy nice of you.

PS Dave taylor i think i saw you driving in coolsprings this afternoon. Nere P.F. Changs chinese resturant. Your jeeps looking good.

thanks

kbo

[Don]

Kevin: I installed a 3.5 R.E. lift a few months ago. Here are my thoughts:

1) spray PB blaster on bolts daily...start now!!
2) rent Strut spring compressor not coil spring compressor from Autozone, Pep boys, etc. The difference is the strut spring compressor works from the exterior of the spring, not the center. Jeeps have bump stops in center of coil springs. You can do job without compressor, but I wouldn't recommend it.
3) look at bolts on lower connecting points of both the front and rear track bar. My kit included a relocator bracket for the front, and required that I disconnect rear and drill new hole. The bolt at the lower end of my track bars was either a #50, or #55 torx bolt. As luck would have it, someone had stripped my front track bar bolt out big time. An old nut and a friend with a welder saved the day.
4) a good floor jack is worth its weight in gold.
5) you will need pickle fork and a small torch
6) having a friend help with install is a good thing !!
7) read directions, re-read directions and just take your time. My install wasn't hard, it just required time.
8) take lots of photos!!!!

[mikea]

[ QUOTE ]
Well actually if you did better in Math back in High School, you would've realized the total time would come out to be 1/4 of the origional time, thus making my theory a reality.

[/ QUOTE ]

Actually patty my boy, You should have noted that neither of the two time saving steps are dependent on each other. So, each one should reduce the origional time by 1/2. If 8 hours is the unassisted time each one would individually reduce the time by 4 hours each. So, if you used both the origional time would be reduced by 8 hours with the resulting time being 0 hours.

[Don]

[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
Well actually if you did better in Math back in High School, you would've realized the total time would come out to be 1/4 of the origional time, thus making my theory a reality.

[/ QUOTE ]

Actually patty my boy, You should have noted that neither of the two time saving steps are dependent on each other. So, each one should reduce the origional time by 1/2. If 8 hours is the unassisted time each one would individually reduce the time by 4 hours each. So, if you used both the origional time would be reduced by 8 hours with the resulting time being 0 hours.

[/ QUOTE ]

Man I wished that I had used this math when I did my lift install. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/brows.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/brows.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/brows.gif

[gmbtj]

What was the pickle fork needed for.

Also, do not install the dropped pitman arm. It will only cause more problems than it will solve. they are made to keep u draglink parallel to trackbar, but they stay parallel untill about 6 inches of lift, so keep that out of the install process. Now if u were doing a 4 inch lift on a YJ, u would need a dropped pitman arm as they dont stay parallel with a lift.

[gmbtj]

Mmmmmm P.F. Changs. :drool:

By the way forget what i said bout the pickle fork, u will need it for the new sway bar links up front.

[scrambled]

Don't forget the case of Corona!!!!

[Dave Taylor]

Kevin wrote:
[ QUOTE ]
PS Dave taylor i think i saw you driving in coolsprings this afternoon. Nere P.F. Changs chinese resturant. Your jeeps looking good.

[/ QUOTE ]

Yep, may have been me...I was over in that area picking up some stuff at Kinko's.

Also, if your friend with the compressor has an impact hammer; you might find that if you put the punch ontop of the swaybar stud and shake the sugar out of it; it will drop right out; and save you from getting a pickle fork. I used mine to remove wheel-studs from the wheel; and they pop out real easy with an air-impact wrench...easier than the pickle fork.

[Don]

Heck, on mine, I had to use torch to heat the crap out of it, while I used the pickle fork with one rather large hammer. I think you will find that things may come apart rather easy, or that you may have to try several ways of doing things before you find what works for you. Just take your time and you will be fine. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tu.gif

[kevin]

-ok so i don;t install the pitman arm drop
-pb plaster everyday to prep bolts
-inpact hammer

sweet i'm almost all prepared!
The quadratec order is confurmed and the lift should come tuesday, and i'll try to install it sunday.


thanks again for the good info.

kbo

[BillM]

[ QUOTE ]
What was the pickle fork needed for.

Also, do not install the dropped pitman arm. It will only cause more problems than it will solve. they are made to keep u draglink parallel to trackbar, but they stay parallel untill about 6 inches of lift, so keep that out of the install process. Now if u were doing a 4 inch lift on a YJ, u would need a dropped pitman arm as they dont stay parallel with a lift.

[/ QUOTE ]

I have a 4" lift, the same one he has, and I have the drop pitman arm and my draglink is parallel to my trackbar now. If you don't use the drop pitman you are more likely to have bad bumpsteer. I think it can also add to the likelyhood of Death Wobble. Just my two bits.

[Dave Taylor]

This is just one person's observations...take it with a grain of salt.

I have about a 5" front (winch, heavy bumpers, receiver hitch, etc..) and a 6" rear lift.

I didn't do anything with my steering; and it is just fine. There was a little play in it the first few weeks, then I got used to it; forgot about it; and now don't notice any play.

I have heard, rumors from various Jeepers mind you (Tom included); to avoid doing any Pitman Arm drops with any lifts that are less than 6 inches....they cause more problems than they fix (rumour has it that is).

Why not do the install of the lift and everything **BUT** the pitman arm; then see how she drives?

You can always go back later and do the pitman if you think you need too....it will most likely not be needed at your lift height though; and it would be a head-ache to have to undue installing it if you don't need it.

[Tomster]

Bill:

You are correct in saying that it is important to keep the drag link and trac bar parallel. That is the ONLY use for the dropped Pitman. So, if your drag link and trac bar are still parallel after the lift, no need for the dropped Pitman arm. However, if the lift causes these parts to no longer be parallel, then you need the Pitman arm.

No, I do not speak from personal experience, but I have done LOTS of reading over in JU, and that is the consensus among folks who oughta know. It would make sense to leave off the dropped Pitman until it is clear that it is needed.

http://www.itsajeep.org/PhotoPost/data/15047/4Web_P7110001.jpg

Tomster

[Don]

Kevin: Are you going to install the lift on the weekend of the 23rd?

[mikea]

I did install the drop pitman arm that came with my lift after running with the stock arm for about 4 months. Now my drag link and track bar are actually closer to parallel then on Robins Stock jeep. It also lowered the joint where the track bar connects to the tie rod which was rubbing on the passanger side lower sway bar bracket. While it still rubbes slightly in certain positions it's nowhere like it was.

As for the drag link and the track bar being parallel I'm not sure I get why this matters. The track bar job is to keep the axle centered under the jeep and really does not affect the steering. Someone explain this to me, and I won't take "because thats what the guys on JU say" for a good answer.

[Tomster]

Well, Mike, it's because that's what the guys on JU say.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

[mullins87]

It probably has to do with each rods "arc of travel" where one end is considered stationary. If they aren't parallel, or at least close, I can see where the steering would change as the suspension moves, as in going over a large "whoop-dee-doo" at high speed where the suspension will load and unload rather quickly. I can really feel this in my YJ at TB. As the front axle articulates back and forth on the trail, I have to turn left and right just to keep it going in a straight line.

[kevin]

[ QUOTE ]
Kevin: Are you going to install the lift on the weekend of the 23rd?

[/ QUOTE ]

yes , if everything goes right it should april 24th

kob

[Don]

Just take your time and you will do fine with the install.
Remind me to take a look at your Rhino lined tub. Someday,,, way in the future, I think I want to do this to my TJ. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dance.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dance.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dance.gif

[kevin]

sweet, my lift came in this morning. It looks like a very good quality kit and all of the parts are acounted for. I started spraying pb plaster on my bolts today and will cantinue to untill sunday when i plan on putting on the lift.

P.s. Don you can look at my jeep's do-it-yourself bedliner anytime you want. I'll try to remember to remined you about it when we go wheel'en one of these days. You'll like the bedliner. It looks good and is very protective/functional.

kbo

[Fred]

I got a gallon of do it yourself stuff from a friend for free I am gonna do AT LEAST my front floor boards and see how it turns out. I may just do a thin coat on the WHOLE floor board for now and hit it again with a athicker coat later!

[Tomster]

Fred:

Make sure the stuff you are using will adhere to itself. Some of those liners are one coat only. Also, the ones that don't adhere to themselves cannot be patched, if you lose the coating in a spot.

I was going to have Thelma Jane Rhino Lined at Hoptown last summer, but our TV went T/U and I had to spend the money for a new TV.

Had just been thinking again lately about having it done, and now our clothes dryer is T/U! Geez! I guess I need to quit even thinkin' about Rhino Liner! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Tomster

Tomster

[Suzjeep]

Too bad ya aren't closer.....I could put the lift on for ya. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

[BillM]

I don't think Herculiner or Rhinoliner will adhere to itself. There is a brand that will for sure and I think it is called Vortec. Not sure on the name though.

[Dave Taylor]

Herculine ***DOES*** adhere to itself.

Not sure about the other.

Anytime you need to do patchwork, just slap on some extra; let it cure and harden; and you can't tell it was ever added later.

[BillM]

Cool deal Dave. Was told that Herculiner would not. The stuff that I know does adhere is called Vortex liner.

[kevin]

[ QUOTE ]
Herculine ***DOES*** adhere to itself.

Not sure about the other.

Anytime you need to do patchwork, just slap on some extra; let it cure and harden; and you can't tell it was ever added later.

[/ QUOTE ]

yeah, its true. even the dupli-color stuff i used worked when you added layers later. Good for patch jobs.


ps tom--

if you line your jeep yourself you can get it done good and for at least half the price of getting it done by the pros.

kbo /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dance.gif

[kevin]

[ QUOTE ]
I got a gallon of do it yourself stuff from a friend for free I am gonna do AT LEAST my front floor boards and see how it turns out. I may just do a thin coat on the WHOLE floor board for now and hit it again with a athicker coat later!

[/ QUOTE ]

your better off doing it all at once. You have to take the seats out and clean the floor pans very well. plus it takes at least 24 hours for the liner to dry. I put two coats on and then a 3rd about 2 weeks later. Taking all the seats out and cleaning the tub take along time. Its best to do a 2 for one.


kbo

[BillM]

If you guys would buy your Herculiner on Ebay, about $60 for the gallon kit. Then go to Harbor Freight ot Northern Tool and buy an undercoat spraygun, $6. If you or someone you know has an air compressor then you can spray it yourself. You will save WAYYYY more than half. They want about $350 here to do mine. Not paying that. No way....LOL

[Dave Taylor]

Man I would be scared to death to 'spray' herculiner.

That stuff is so think and gunky I would be afraid the hose would get away from me; and I would ruin everything within 20 yards of it.

When Herculiner is wet and sticky; it is thicker than Molasses; and I can't think of anything it wouldn't stick too. if the air-sprayer works; let us know though....that might be the fastest way to do it; and to build it up in thick layers. Mine varied between a 1/16th of an inch to about an 1/8th of an inch once it dried; depending on how many coats I did....I would have liked to have done the entire tub at 1/4; but it gets pretty tiring after a couple hours of doing it.

[Paul E]

I'm sure y'all have heard the story of this... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Herculined hootus!

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18595&page=1&pp=20

I used some of the Duplicolor spray in bedliner on the cover of my trunk I built. Came out okay I guess. But for now, the carpet is staying. If it gets nasty, then I'll consider going with a spray/rollin bedliner.

If I knew then what I know now about Jeeps, I would have done quite a few things different:
- electronics installation
- carpeting
- wheels/backspacing

I'd probably still get the 4cyl though. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif