D- 30 axle shaft u-joints & rear drive shaft joint

[Don]

Well.... after 147,000 miles and pulling an XJ (that will remain nameless), out of a mud puddle on Sunday at Haspin Acres, it is time for me to replace the u-joints on my axle shafts. While I am at it, I'll replace the u-joints in the rear drive shaft as all my joints are factory originals. I read Fred's write up /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/goodpost.gif However, I was told that I could use the socket method and replace these joints completely myself. Anyone do this? In old days, I had a machine shop that I worked with on a regular basis. Unfortunately, he retired and closed the machine shop years ago. Besides a machine shop, what garage(s) will replace the joints if I remove the shafts? I have also asked Indyxj to provide some information on this subject as he recently pulled his axle shafts. Any comments, suggestions, or prayers are welcome...... If you want to drive to Louisville for a wrench-n party, bring a sleeping bag and come on. I'll have beer for most, and sprite for Patrick /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hee.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hee.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hee.gif

[IndyXJ]

I did everything but INSTALL the u-joints. Took to a shop. And this was for my SPARES. I bought whole new assemblies from www.rawbrown.com (http://www.rawbrown.com) for $249 OEM. Sent u an email too.

[Don]

I know this has been discussed in the past, but, I am confused...... if push comes to shove, can I pull one or both axle shafts from the D30 and still drive Jeep in 2wd for a few days?

[Fred]

i tried the socket, and COULD NOT get the joints out. The shop that did them told me they heated the caps and had nto use a special puller on them. Only took like an hour per joint

[Don]

what kind of shop did you take them to?

[IndyXJ]

I think your fluid would leak out if you pull your shafts and drive it that way.

It was a mom-pop type Napa store. A machine shop might also do it I think.

[scrambled]

I guess this is a TJ thing huh? I changed all 4 driveshaft joints on mine today and it took about 1 hour with a vice, hammer, some sockets and a screw driver. What's the deal

[Don]

[ QUOTE ]
I guess this is a TJ thing huh? I changed all 4 driveshaft joints on mine today and it took about 1 hour with a vice, hammer, some sockets and a screw driver. What's the deal

[/ QUOTE ]

Yep, there must be some differences between a CJ and a TJ. On TJ's the u-joints on the axle shafts in the Dana 30 are a common failure point if vehicle has wear & tear, or miles on it. Suppose to be a fairly easy fix, just requires time. Replacing the u-joints in the rear driveshaft is suppose to be fairly easy. I'll let you know about both of these AFTER I do them /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif However, on a TJ, replacing u-joints in the front driveshaft is a ROYAL PITA from what I have been told. I'll leave that job for another day /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

[BillM]

Come on Don...Just drive to my house and We can git-r-done in a jiffy....LOL. Do you guys not have a driveshaft shop there aat all? I have 2-3 here.

[IndyXJ]

Buy GENUINE Spicer 297/760 U joints for your shafts and not AutoZone BruteForce knockoffs.

[Don]

If I understood my local 4x4 shop, they can do the joints and cargen in the front driveshaft for me... I can either pull the shaft and take it to them, or just take the whole Jeep. Me pulling the shaft is the cheaper way of doing things. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hee.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hee.gif Wish you lived a little closer to my part of the World /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/woot.gif

[Don]

[ QUOTE ]
Buy GENUINE Spicer 297/760 U joints for your shafts and not AutoZone BruteForce knockoffs.

[/ QUOTE ]

Thanks for the information. I had heard this before, so I just ordered my parts thru my local 4x4 shop. He said that they have had a "run on these parts" so he didn't have everything I needed, but the delivery truck was coming next morning (today), so I should be able to get all the parts I need.

[Don]

Remember I put the final death blow to my axle shaft u-joint pulling an XJ out of a mud puddle? I said that the XJ would remain nameless /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

If I do it, I get in trouble........ /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

I do it ... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hee.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hee.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hee.gif

http://www.itsajeep.org/PhotoPost/data/15374/indyxj-stuck-E.jpg

[Fred]

I bought my ujoints at ORielly's auto parts, been in about a month and 2 wheelin trips I'll keep you guys posted, **** they were ONLY $8 each!!

[IndyXJ]

I got my 760x's from Louisville offroad. They are about $22 a piece. I guess from reading tons of write ups as well as from Pirate(not our Pirate!) that get Spicer and you won't regret it. I do have some Brute Force's for emergency spares tho.

[IndyXJ]

Hey Don-do you have access to the pics from our Land Rover friends? Forget their name...sorry! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

[Don]

Alexa & Mary... look in my gallery.. what is there is all that I have. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dance.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dance.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dance.gif

[Don]

[ QUOTE ]
I got my 760x's from Louisville offroad. They are about $22 a piece. I guess from reading tons of write ups as well as from Pirate(not our Pirate!) that get Spicer and you won't regret it. I do have some Brute Force's for emergency spares tho.

[/ QUOTE ]

Well, I was having a good day. My Spicers came in ($29.00 each), I located the one and only Harbor Freight store that we have in town. They had one u-joint press left. The U-joint kit was marked $39.00,, but I walked out the door with it for approximately $31.00 including tax as it was on sale. Since I was having such a good day and the noise from my Jeep is starting to worry me, I decided to skip class tonight and tear into the dana 30 and replace those u-joints. Pulling the axles wasn't such a big deal. However, the passenger side fought me the entire way as I think those bolts have never been removed. I mean they were tough. However, the driver side came apart very quickly and easy, I suspect that it has been worked on sometime in recent history. My good luck had to come to an end, which it did. I worked, heated, fussed and cussed at those u-joints (from the passenger side axle) for over one hour and got no where. I decided just to pull the driver's side and take the axles to a machine shop and let them press the old joints out and press the new ones in. Whatever they charge, it will be worth it as this part of the job is a ROYAL PITA!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/td.gif

[Don]

[ QUOTE ]
Hey Don-do you have access to the pics from our Land Rover friends? Forget their name...sorry! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

Here are all the PHOTOS (http://www.itsajeep.org/PhotoPost/showgallery.php/cat/15374) that I have.

[Don]

I don't know about you guys / gals, but I just added a 13mm, 12 point socket to my trail toolbox.

[scrambled]

Do they have full circle clips or just the half ones? At least you gave it a try. I don't know your previous experiance but now at least when it happenens on the trail you can fix it yourself. You did good by getting the spicer joints. You save a few bucks on the cheap ones but when they fail then you have some wrecked shafts

[Don]

Half clips.... I only attempted to press the joint from the passenger side out.. It appears to be factory. The driver's side came apart real easy compared. I suspect that it has been replaced before. Maybe this could be a trail fix, if the joints have been replaced before, but I wouldn't want to attempt it, unless I had a spare axle, complete with joint ready to be installed. I used small torch and heated the crap out of dog ears and still couldn't budge the joint. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/td.gif Everyone on this list has said that Spicer is only way to go. My local 4x4 shop agreed with this thinking. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tu.gif

[Don]

I got my axles (both of them) to the machine shop first thing this morning. They said they would call me around lunch time to come and get them. Boy this repair could keep growing as I am thinkig about pulling the dana 30 diff cover for a look see and to change fluid that I have no idea how old it is. 90 Weight gear oil go back in?

[Paul E]

Don I used the Valvoline Synth blend 75w90 or 80w90 (can't remember) and it is running super smooth. I used Redline MT90 in the transmission and it shifts SOOO smooth now.

[Don]

Thanks for the information, Paul. The machine shop called me a few minutes ago and advised that my axles are ready. I asked if the old joints were bad, the guy actually laughed and said oh yeah, they were bad. Somehow, I think my old joints will show all the 141,000 miles, or whatever they have on them /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hee.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hee.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hee.gif

[Don]

I picked up my axles from the machine shop this afternoon, the guy at the machine shop said that I jumped the gun on replacing the u-joints as he figures I could have gotten two or three more miles out of them. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif My Jeep is back on the road and is driving like it should /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tu.gif It appears that only rust, dirt, and years of wear and tear kept those old u-joints from flying into a million pieces /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif Photos have been posted HERE (http://www.itsajeep.org/PhotoPost/showgallery.php/cat/15375)

[IndyXJ]

Glad you got everything finished. Eventually you may have to do the hub bearings if they never been done, but that is another post. Those caps look toasted...mine looked passable after 82k or so miles.

[Don]

[ QUOTE ]
Glad you got everything finished. Eventually you may have to do the hub bearings if they never been done, but that is another post. Those caps look toasted...mine looked passable after 82k or so miles.

[/ QUOTE ]

Yep..... they were toast. I would have pulled the hubs and replaced those bearings while I had the TJ apart. However, pulling those hubs is going to be a job as they appear to have been left in place since 1998. The machine shop said he didn't have the puller needed to pull those hubs. Just from looking at them, I say there is NO WAY those hubs are coming off the axles without major work.

[IndyXJ]

I had a BFH to help with mine and mine's a 99. Yeah, one of those jobs you need a good work environment like your/a garage and a beer on hand when taking a break!

[Don]

[ QUOTE ]
I had a BFH to help with mine and mine's a 99. Yeah, one of those jobs you need a good work environment like your/a garage and a beer on hand when taking a break!

[/ QUOTE ]

From the looks of mine,,, I will need to PB Blast it on a daily basis for about one month, before I could even attempt to use the BFH. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif

[BillM]

I changed a set on a 99 and they came right off for me. And they had seen alot of offroad use. Bad thing is the cost of those things. About $130 each side.

[Don]

Do you have to purchase hub, bearings and all as a unit? I was thinking that there was regular wheel bearing (like in a car) that could be changed separately. I assume, there is no way to grease these bearings?

[Fred]

[ QUOTE ]
I picked up my axles from the machine shop this afternoon, the guy at the machine shop said that I jumped the gun on replacing the u-joints as he figures I could have gotten two or three more miles out of them. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif My Jeep is back on the road and is driving like it should /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tu.gif It appears that only rust, dirt, and years of wear and tear kept those old u-joints from flying into a million pieces /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif Photos have been posted HERE (http://www.itsajeep.org/PhotoPost/showgallery.php/cat/15375)

[/ QUOTE ]
At least your UJoints still had needle bearings in them, My passengers side just plain fell apart, and my drivers side when they removed it basiclt disintgrated in the puller. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dance.gif I got lucky it didn't happen on the trail or even worse on the road!!!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hee.gif

[Don]

I agree with ya, Fred, best to replace these joints _Before_ they go flying into a million pieces. One of my end caps had no bearings in it at all and the cap was being worn out from the inside out. Were you able to replace your joints using the hand press from Harbor Freight, or did you need the assistance of a machine shop?

[Fred]

Took mine to a shop, they replaced them for like $14 each and I, against everyones better judgement, used joints from ORielly's auto, only $7 ea. So I will see how long the Cheapo Knock-off's last. They have been wheeled 3 times already and driver about 300 on road miles. So Far So Good!

[Don]

No way were mine coming out without some major equipment. It appears that the machine shop had trouble with them. Cost me $28.50 each, which I thought was a little high, but I never used this shop, and they promised sameday service where other shops weren't so eager. Since I had waited until Friday morning to call a Machine shop, same day serice was important and I guess, I paid for it. However, I used Spicer joints, so hopefully, I won't have to worry about this for another 140,000 plus miles /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tu.gif

[IndyXJ]

Don-the hub bearing assemblies are one sealed unit and non-serviceable. $120 or so a piece as well.

[Don]

[ QUOTE ]
Don-the hub bearing assemblies are one sealed unit and non-serviceable. $120 or so a piece as well.

[/ QUOTE ]

Is there a left and right? I would purchase one to have on hand, just in case I need it. However, I don't think my current hubs are coming off without the help of a machine shop, so there is no way this could ever be a trail fix.

[IndyXJ]

Either side will work, but don't just buy one. Also...if you end up over hauling the front end like I did(brakes, rotors, etc.) you have to buy the rotors that match your hubs.(Cast vs. Composite rotors) but it looks like you aren't doing that yet.
I'm keeping one as a spare, the other one I took off has noticeable issues when I turn it.

[Don]

I agree with you, after 140,000 plus miles, if I replace one, I'll replace the other. I was thinking of carrying one as a spare, but since this won't be a trail fix on my Jeep, there really isn't a need to worry about it until I have a problem. Thanks for the information.... I have learned some new stuff.

[scrambled]

[ QUOTE ]
so hopefully, I won't have to worry about this for another 140,000 plus miles /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tu.gif

[/ QUOTE ]
Hey Don have you never broken a u-joint on the trail? You must be a better driver then me for sure. I also read that you couldn't replace it on the trail. Is ther something on the new jeeps that keep you from doing that. I am glad mine isn't like that or I would never be able to wheel. I used to chew thru front shafts. My Superior shaft have got that in check so far /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

[Don]

[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
so hopefully, I won't have to worry about this for another 140,000 plus miles /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tu.gif

[/ QUOTE ]
Hey Don have you never broken a u-joint on the trail? You must be a better driver then me for sure. I also read that you couldn't replace it on the trail. Is ther something on the new jeeps that keep you from doing that. I am glad mine isn't like that or I would never be able to wheel. I used to chew thru front shafts. My Superior shaft have got that in check so far /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

I haven't had a problem with them on the trail so far. It appears that most people can do this job on the trail, and I might be able to now that I had the factory joints removed. Those suckers were welded in with 140,000 plus miles of wear and tear. Getting my joints out wasn't an easy job for the machine shop and they had the big press, where I only had the little Harbor Freight press.

I _think_ on the TJ's, that the Dana 30 is the weak link in the system, with the joints, and/or axles as a close second. I _think_ it is basically a close call on which is weaker, the Dana 30, or the axles. Rubi's seem to have more trouble with axles and joints than most TJ's. However, I suspect that most Rubi's are driven harder than a normal TJ as they have the D44 up front and they are locked.

[gmbtj]

there are air actuated lockers, so they can be turned off.