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Teddy
04-12-2005, 02:17 PM
I currently have 3.07’s with 33’s, so I was planning on regearing. I picked up a D35 rear for cheap with a “No slip” already in it. The rear has less miles on it than mine also. I know D35 isn’t ideal, but seems like a cheap solution. In addition, I will have to get my front gears changed out $700.00 to have a shop do it or $600.00 for a salvage axle (full replacement), if I can find one. The result will be 4.11’s with front and rear locked.
Or

My other thoughts were to just put lockers front and rear and drop in a TeraLow. Then I’ll get a great low gear and waste no money on my D30/D35’s. I’m pretty sure I'll be able to blow them up with a TeraLow, so then I’ll have an excuse to upgrade both axles, eventually /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

Help me decide here or tell me a better path. It’s about the same amount of money. Thanks!

mikea
04-12-2005, 02:32 PM
The dana 30 should be fine. If you trash anything up front it will probably be the axle shafts which can be replaced with cromolly or something else stronger then stock. As far as the rear I wouldn't put the money in it. Talk to Dave Taylor about what he went through with the 8.8 swap from and explorer. I think they are easy to find with 4.11's so you would only need to regear up front. Plus you'd get rear disc brakes to boot. Thats what I would do.

Teddy
04-12-2005, 03:21 PM
Yeah the D35 with "no slip" was Dave's. If I do an axle swap I'm looking at twice the money. I'd get a better deal running the D35 as long as it will hold up.

mikea
04-12-2005, 04:17 PM
[ QUOTE ]
Yeah the D35 with "no slip" was Dave's. If I do an axle swap I'm looking at twice the money. I'd get a better deal running the D35 as long as it will hold up.

[/ QUOTE ]

Ahhh then your probably getting a good deal on the D35... how much is he paying you to haul it off? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

If your getting a good deal on it, you would at least be able to use your existing axle shafts for spairs if you do break one. So that would be a plus.

mawardjr
04-12-2005, 05:25 PM
my limited experience leads me to say the following ... please correct if wrong ... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

My guess is that the stock D35 would not last long behind a Tera Low. If you did break the D35, you'll be left with trying to upgrade the axle plus regear your front end. Of course you'll have spare shafts but again ... they wouldn't survive long behind the tera.

So that leads me into 2 suggestions ....
1)Get the D30 up to 4.11's. Either thru regear or complete axle. Swap in Dave's D35 with the 4.11's. The D35 will survive longer in this configuration plus the spare shafts for a safety net. Then you can begin the savings for the Tera Low and a D44 or 8.8 that would survive the higher torque.

2) lock what you have and then contemplate your final gear ratio that you'd like to be at. Then save the pennies to regear the front when you finally get the D44 or 8.8 and tera low. Again - you'll still have spare D35 shafts if something happens on the trail.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Don
04-12-2005, 05:48 PM
Since you are running 33 inch tires, and that your Jeep is not a Rubi, I don't think you will be happy with the 4.11's. I thought I wanted to do the 8.8 with 4.11 swap, then regear the D30 in front only. I soon learned this wasn't a kool idea. Then I wanted to go to 4.88's, but my local 4x4 shop said 4.56 is what I want. They said that the 4.11's would be a waste of $$. I agree.

Teddy
04-13-2005, 09:17 AM
I did a little research last night on crawl ratio's. My current ratio is 32. If I regear to 4.11s my crawl ratio will be 44, 4.56s would be 48. If I don't regear and drop in a TeraLow, my crawl ratio will go from 32 to 48. Essentially where 4.56's will land me, but for half the price. I don't see why a transfer case would create more or a worse kind of torque than lower gears?

Don if you do a 4.1 transfer case i.e TeraLow and 4.11 gears you are essentially a Rubi when you get done (minus the SYE and electric lockers).

DavidC
04-13-2005, 09:52 AM
After many month's of debate... I went with 4.11 gears on 31" wheels. I figured if.. (WHEN) I move to 33"s I'd do a Tera low,Atlas or NV241OR.

Most of my wheelin is family wheelin and I want to keep the CG as low as possible.

Now if I could just get my Jeep back from the shop doing the gear/locker install.

If you don't plan on changing the tcase out.. go to 4.56 gears.

BTW if anybody needs Dana 35 parts let me know. I have one in my back yard.

David

Matt
04-13-2005, 09:52 AM
By keeping the 3.07 gears with the terra, you are still not getting the torque from the engine, on the pavement to turn those tires easily.Remember the rubi comes with 4.10, and the 4 to one low range. The Terra low shouldnt be used to "fix" another problem .It most likely will create another, too much torque going to that D35 rear and a locker back there will only compund the possible breakeage.Personnally, to spend a grand or so on the Terra-low, with the lightest duty rear, is not going to be cheaper, when things begin to self destruct. Theory is a wonderful thing, but putting it to work in the field is another story. Have fun, take care

mawardjr
04-13-2005, 10:27 AM
hmmm ... learned something new ....

okay based off of the crawl ratio numbers ... the amount of torque would be the same when comparing the teralow to just 4.11's?

Teddy
04-13-2005, 01:24 PM
Actually slightly better, 44 with 4.11 compared to 48 with TeraLow. Something I hadn't thought of was how thin a 3.07 ring gear is. Not certain how it will hold up.

I read a review by someone that did the TeraLow conversion and he said he uses less force now on the trail, doesn't have to give it **** to get over obstacles.

I've located a front axle, with 40K on it, so hopefully I'll be able to do both gearing and the T case mod. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hee.gif

Hipee
04-14-2005, 11:30 PM
I say run what you can afford man. Worry about it when it breaks.

Matt
04-15-2005, 07:30 AM
The only thing I've read about the terra-low is that Terra strongly recemends that you keep the RPM below 3k, because it may cause breakeage to their unit.I'd still opt for the stronger rear.Remember, Jeeps have been around longer than lockers, and theres no shame in getting pulled out from time to time.The theory of wait till it breaks doesnt work to well in the woods. Not many tow trucks can get in to where we go,so keep on thinking it out.Take care

Dave Taylor
04-15-2005, 09:29 AM
You might also kinda take things in stages; and not get to excited to do too much to begin with.

I would suggest avoiding doing any tera-low kit, or atlas, or extra gear reduction at this point.

When you just add a locker to the rear; with the 4.11 gears; you will find a world of difference on the types of trails that you are running.

As long as you don't get agressive and 'hoppy' with the gas pedal; you will be able to do most anything you feel comfortable doing at Turkey Bay or Summertown or most of the local wheeling places with 33s and one locker.

The low-range gearing is great in highly-concentrated rock-gardens....but most of the places around Middle Tenn don't fit this terrain makeup...so super low gearing just isn't that beneficial.

From my perspective; I wouldn't want to go from 2.72 to 1; to 4.00 to 1....because it winds up first gear toooo tight for hill climbing and mud crossing; which is much more prevelant that rock-gardens in our area.

You can look at guys like Mike Ward and Tom Johnson; who both run 31" tires and lockers; and don't have any low gearing and they run just about anything they want to around the area.....

If you take things in smaller steps when upgrading; you will find that what you thought you needed you really don't need; and this can save money in the long run.

If you go with the rear locker; and put the 4.11 carrier in the front; you will find that you can now run most trails you want to...(it now comes down to more driving technique and spotting that rig-capability)

If you want to get the next step of performance for on the trail; then after adding the locker; I would suggest finding a good set of MT mud tires way before a tera-low.

Since you already have a lift and a winch, With a rear locker and mud tires you will be able to do just about anything you want to do in just about any condition. You will find out that with the extra ability you get from the locker; there will actually be trails you might be afraid to do, or uncomfortable to do; that your rig itself is capable of doing....which is a good thing.

Teddy
05-04-2005, 02:45 PM
Thanks for all the advice, here's a little update as to my plans. Mike Ward and I swap in Dave's D35 with 4.11's and a No slip. In addition, I'm goign to put an Aussie Locker upfront when I regear. I'm also adding some skids and finally fixing the crack exhaust manifold. This will give me a real decent crawl ratio. The jeep already drive like a completely different vehicle. If you haven't regeared your 3.07's, all I can say is, you'll kick youself for not doing it sooner. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smashfreakB.gif

Fred
05-04-2005, 04:58 PM
I agree with your choice. I am maxxing my tire size at 33's. I plan my gears to be 4.56. My order is gonna be.....Finish buying skids and Rocker protection/trail corners. Add a 2" Procomp lift to what I have, change to adjustable upper and lower control arms, make any suspension "adjustments" needed. Now winch, then gears/lockers, and last 33's. I have a few years but these are my plans. I am gonna max at around 4-5" lift and 33's!
Good luck and enjoy what you have!!! JEEP ON!

Teddy
05-04-2005, 10:12 PM
Fred,
I though hard about going with 4.56's and probably will eventually, as I to want to end up with a higher lift, but go with 35's. However, as I shopped the net, I noticed lots of 4 cylinder guys selling 4.11's cheap. I got the front carrier, ring & pinion with only 30K miles on them for $50. Now, I'm 1/2 way regeared with minimal investment in $, labor and more experience for later. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hee.gif

Did I mentioned, my Jeep drives amazing. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dance.gif I didn't even know you could use 5th gear on the interstate.

Dave Taylor
05-05-2005, 07:56 AM
Fred,
I would suggest re-thinking 4.56s if you plan to go to 35s eventually.

It isn't any more expensive to go on to 4.88s; and they are the largest gear-size that will fit in Dana 30/35 axles.

If you're going to the trouble to regear for future growth to 35s; why not go as high as possible for those 35s?

I have never heard anyone who went up to 4.88s say they felt like they went to far; and wish they hadn't...

Fred
05-05-2005, 09:11 AM
No I am maxxing at 33's! 35's is more tire than I want! Thats why I say 4.56. Yes IF I were doig 35's I would say 4.88. But I would NOT put 35's on a D35 even with 4.88's. There are guys that do it but as hard as I wheel my jeep, 35's would kill it! Teddy said HE wants 35's, down the road, but I am sure that involves 4.88's and an 8.8 rear!

Teddy
05-05-2005, 11:42 AM
[ QUOTE ]
No I am maxxing at 33's! 35's is more tire than I want! Thats why I say 4.56. Yes IF I were doig 35's I would say 4.88. But I would NOT put 35's on a D35 even with 4.88's. There are guys that do it but as hard as I wheel my jeep, 35's would kill it! Teddy said HE wants 35's, down the road, but I am sure that involves 4.88's and an 8.8 rear!

[/ QUOTE ]


35's was me. I was given a Dana 60 out of a 3/4 ton Van. I'm going to look into what it will take to make it work. I'll just build it in preparation, if it makes sense (not sure what's involved yet). I wouldn't waste much on a D35 and I don't wheel as hard as Fred does . /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Fred
05-05-2005, 02:48 PM
WHEEL HARD OR WHEEL HOME /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hee.gif!!!!....LOL...I am not putting ALOT into my 35 either, just a locker and MAYBE gears, it depends IF I can find a bolt in 44 for a reasonable price I will go to a 44 when I do gears! But still only 33's and wheel it like I stole it! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/woot.gif

gmbtj
05-05-2005, 06:15 PM
[ QUOTE ]

35's was me. I was given a Dana 60 out of a 3/4 ton Van. I'm going to look into what it will take to make it work. I'll just build it in preparation, if it makes sense (not sure what's involved yet). I wouldn't waste much on a D35 and I don't wheel as hard as Fred does . /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

Umm I hope you kidding about the D60 if you are maxxing out at 35's. The pumpkin of the Dana 60 will almost be dragging the ground on 35's, so if I were you, than I would go to at least 37's if you plan on using a D60. I plan on a D60 or a pinion brake Rockwell, but that is in the WAY distant future, because it is still my Daily Driver. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tu.gif